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What to look for in cookware

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     Conductivity

     Reactivity

     Stick

     Ease of Handling

Conductivity

Ability of material, especially exterior, to absorb and transfer heat

Highly conductive materials:
These can sear, braise, and cook food such as omelettes and fish on the outside without overcooking on the inside. These are best for delicate sauces and foods that require precise timing. Rapid heating adds convenience and saves time. Copper is the most conductive material; the second-best choice is aluminum, either anodized or nonanodized. 

Less conductive materials:
These are slow to heat and cool but excellent at retaining heat, these are the best choice for long, slow cooking of dishes like stews and soups. They're also good for braising or searing foods that are slow to overcook (for example, steak). Cast iron with or without enamel and most stainless steel (especially without copper or aluminum sandwiches) are the least conductive materials.

Hot spots:
These occur when the pot or pan distributes heat unevenly--for example, when the base disc stops short of the sides, food tends to burn on inside corners. The thicker the conductive metal disc in the pot's base, the fewer hot spots will occurs.

Reactivity

Effect of cooking surface on food's taste and color

Reactive materials:
Some metals change the taste and color of highly acidic or alkaline foods. Aluminum, for example, reacts with wine and tomatoes. Unlined copper can be toxic when used to cook highly acidic foods. While both are great materials for cooking, consider carefully what you cook in them.

Nonreactive materials:
Stainless steel and anodized aluminum have no influence on the flavor and appearance of food; use these for wine and white sauces.

Stick

Bonding of cooking surface with food

Nonstick:
The term nonstick refers to various types of coatings that prevent food from sticking to the pan. Nonstick layers make for easy turning (helpful for delicate fishes) and allow fat-free and lowfat cooking. However, nonstick coatings are vulnerable to metal utensils and shouldn't be put in the dishwasher.

Stick:
Typical uncoated surfaces enable browning, glazing, searing and so forth and work with all utensils. These surfaces are also often more oven-safe than nonstick (up to 450°F). Cast iron and stainless stick the most, enamel on iron and regular aluminum a bit less, anodized aluminum even less.

Ease of Handling

Weight and handles

 

Look for pots and pans you find easy to hold, lift and turn. You will rarely use a pot or pan that's hard to handle. Consider the item's material, weight, size and design--and how it will feel when it's full.

Weight:
Cast iron (enameled or not) is the heaviest material. Next comes ceramic; then heavy-gauge (18/10) steel; then anodized aluminum. The lightest materials are copper and regular uncoated aluminum.

Handles:
Grip style and size, heat control and attachment are the key characteristics. Consider how hot the handle will get with stovetop use--cast iron and bronze heat up the most, stainless steel remains cool longest. All handles get hot in the oven. Vinyl or rubber removal handles are also available now. Look for a grip style you find comfortable--it's a matter of personal preference. The same is true of attachment methods--riveted and welded handles won't come loose, but rivets can be hard to clean, and neither type is replaceable. Screwed-on handles come loose, but you can tighten and replace them.

 

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Last modified: February 19, 2013